Yeah. Santa Fe is known for art. But this is the street—the area of town where one gallery is right next to another and another, and across the street from ten more. Canyon Road stretches for a couple miles, branches off from one of the main roads through town, and heads higher up into the foothills. There are little cafés every once in a while, and people are having drinks outside under coral-colored umbrellas. I always detect that smoky, rich smell here, from the restaurants. Everything’s green and it’s warm out. The streets are shaded with ancient trees that rustle in the faint breeze. Residences are sometimes right in between a couple galleries, and their front yards, though small, are well-kept and dotted with huge, bright poppies: pink, red, yellow, orange. I could stay here all day, and Drew will most likely humor me because he can see how much I enjoy it. And I love him for that.
These galleries, they are in no way groups of similar buildings just clumped together. I mean, a lot of the structures have been around since the 16- or 1700s, and they are all different sizes. It’s true most of the buildings in Santa Fe, no matter what their purpose was originally, are adobe-style, but there are a lot of different takes on that. Some have borders made of stone, some have ristras outside; others, the wooden posts near the roof or the bright blue windowframes or the angular roofs. These buildings were peoples’ homes or shops or something long before someone bought them to display their artwork. One gallery has all these windmills made of spoons out in the yard, and when they spin, they turn into interesting symmetrical shapes. Another uses the yard it has to place sculptures right next to the road—there’s one of an enormous man made of metal, sitting in water next to the white picket fence. He lays back, his head resting on a tree trunk, his torso and crossed legs emerging from the ground, making the gravel and stones look like the water in which he relaxes. There’s a Turkish art gallery, with rugs and pottery. A Russian gallery with beautiful paintings that take up entire rooms.
Up the road, we’re at the house that’s preserved by the Historical Foundation. It’s an older one, built in 1612, in a hacienda sort of layout. Branches of the home lay in front and back, stretching into the yard. The entrance is through a vast courtyard with gardens and creeping plants. The main hallway is straight in front of us, and three or four brightly-colored wood benches rest against the wall. Some of the doors are not open to the public, and these are mostly the old bedrooms, which I really want to see. There are old lace curtains covering the windows. At the end of the open hallway is more of the garden, which reaches out around the house. A cat that was lounging in the hallway takes an interest in Drew and follows, his smoky brown tail curling and rubbing on the wall.
So I bring the camera out. Stopping at the end of the corridor and looking back in, I can see the worn arches fashioned around the hallway. Parts of the house are crumbling, but I think it is so beautiful. It’s that sun-baked color. I don’t think the pictures do justice to this place, so I just put it back in my bag. The leaves are still rustling in the trees behind me, almost a whisper, a murmur. And I’m taken aback—by how much history is here. How many people lived here before this? Who stood where I’m standing right now and who sat in the swing down the path in the garden? Who walked along the road out there before it was paved? Where did these people come from, what were their lives like, what were their stories? Are they still here? This place, in 1612, had so much going on, and I desperately wish that I could see it, hear it. But for a moment, I think I almost can. I’m stirred, staggered.